a great panorama of the fast Andean steppe
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there is always at least one vicuna that keeps a wery eye on you
our guide Louis explains how people lived in houses like this one
checking out the tiny Ancuta church
the Guallatire is an active volcano, note the yellow sulfurous deposits and the steaming fumaroles on the flank
boulders block the front door, seems there is nobody home
a typical house in the tiny hamlet of Ancuta
a wild vicuna joins the domesticated sheep and alpacas
llamas and alpacas are hardy animals and graze outdoors all year
the Iglesia de la Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción in Guallatire was built in the 17th century
Las Vicunas National Reserve

Las Vicunas National Reserve is a section of the Lauca Biosphere Reserve, located between Lauca National Park and Salar de Surire Natural Monument. 
Las Vicunas features large stretches of Andean steppe at heights well above 4000 meters.  

The reserve is named after the abundant population of wild Vicunas that roam the area and often graze together with domesticated camelids and sheep.
Active volcanoes dominate the landscape and shallow rivers and creeks crisscross the area, with the Rio Lauca and Rio Caullatire being the largest waterways.

Dirt roads like the A 235 from Putre provide 4WD access to this isolated reserve. 

There are a few pre-Columbian Aymara settlements like Ancuta and Guallatire, both sitting at the foothill of the conspicuously smoking Guallatire volcano.

Most houses here are uninhabited, the few locals that have not yet left for cities like Arica, carve out a living by breeding and herding llamas, alpacas and sheep.

We visited Las Vicunas on a cold but generally sunny September day in 2011.

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vicunas graze in a grand setting of large steppes and towering volcanos
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we pass a half frozen creek
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we set these vicunas on the run
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the strato volcano Guallatire looms in the background
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a small creek sneaks through the valley
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